You are a perfume historian, anthropologist, and philosopher of scent and odors. What led you to specialize in the study of olfaction?
When I started working on scent and odors in the 1980s, this field of research was virtually unexplored. Through my books and exhibitions, I aimed to restore the noble standing of scent and perfume. I analyzed the reasons for the discredit cast upon olfaction for centuries by the vast majority of philosophers, scientists, and psychoanalysts, and I showed the complexity of perfume and its therapeutic and cultural importance by moving beyond its sole seductive function.
Our clients often tell us about the soothing and luminous effect that our Le Sud line, by night (a green and vibrant orange blossom scent), has on them. How can this particular sensation be explained?
Orange blossom already soothed King Louis XIV, who was plagued by great torments at the end of his life. It was the only perfumed note he could tolerate, having become allergic to perfumes after overusing them. The feeling of calm may come from the orange blossom note.
Why do scents affect our emotions so powerfully?
From ancient times, scents have been used to influence emotions and behaviors. The famous Egyptian Kyphi, for which we have a formula dating back to the 16th century BC, was known to relax and gladden like wine, without the effects of intoxication! And the Bible reports that Esther anointed herself with myrrh oil for six months to seduce King Ahasuerus, and that the Queen of Sheba brought with her many perfumes to please King Solomon.
The sense of smell is closely linked to brain areas involved in memory and emotion. Memories evoked by scents therefore have a strong emotional power. They are very vivid, very concrete.
Lost Alhambra is our amber-scented line, much appreciated for its voluptuous character. Could you tell us more about the captivating dimension of its notes?
Traditionally, true amber was associated with a strong power of seduction and was introduced into the formulas of perfumes called "oriental." As for the rose, it has always been closely involved in seduction. During the Renaissance, the poet Ronsard was very sensitive to it and evoked it in famous verses: "Mignonne allons voir si la rose…" (Darling, let's see if the rose…)
Our scented line Poudre Sentimentale is inspired by the Roaring Twenties and its cultural effervescence. Did this era forge a particular link with powdery scents?
A period of euphoria, lightness, and great creativity, the Roaring Twenties also saw the success of a product used for centuries in Asia: rice powder. The powdery aspect has a very sensual "gourmand" facet. It contributed to the success of the great perfumer François Coty in the United States.
How can we use scents to bring well-being into our daily lives?
Perfumes, ointments, creams, oils, soaps, and scented detergents aim to provide a sense of well-being and comfort. Floral, amber, musky, sweet, woody, leathery, chypre, aromatic, and citrus scents have always contributed to this feeling of well-being and comfort.